Lion Brand Casual Comfort Pullover

ok, I'm taking a break from writing patterns to finally work on a sweater. I asked Lion Brand if I can post some of the changes I've made to their sweater, especially since I cannot wear wool, and they have given me permission for this. I will update this with a picture when I'm done, as well as give you an amount of yarn I used for it. The orginal pattern can be found here, Casual Comfort Pullover. I'm making mine in the 1X-2X size,

So far, here are the changes I've made to the pattern:
Use Red Heart Super saver yarn, 5oz balls in Grey Heather-- So far, I've used 6 balls and still have some yardage to go, and I'm just finished the placing of the sleeves on the holders.

Where the pattern calls for using 2 strands of yarn held together, hold 4 strands.

Now, at the time I started this, Lion brand hadn't posted the corrections about using double pointed needles, and the cast on at the top of the body was too small to use with my 19 needles, so I started with the neck. So cast on 54 stitches, join w/o twisting and knit 5 rows.
Next row: Decrease 10 stitches evenly around.
Knit 5 rows.
Next row: Decrease 8 stitches evenly around.
Knit 5 rows.
Now this will put you at the top of the body with 36 sts on the needles. Knit the Set Up Round as written in the pattern.

From here, you will follow the pattern as written, except where it has you knitting into one strand for the increase, knit into 2 strands.

I also used 2 other circular needles for stitch holders, kind of "tying" them together after moving the stitches onto them.

Now I will add here that the orginal pattern calls for the sleeves to be sewn to the body after they were made, you know, where you picked up the stitches for the sleeves and started knitting them. I'm planning on picking up a few extra stitches here so I can elimate the need to sew that hole closed. I'm also planning on making them longer. As I get to that step, I will let you know what I did and how many stitches I added, as well as the length.

I'm hoping this will help others that have the same problem I have with wool, and give you another way to make this lovely sweater.

Hip-Wading Socks

Ok, here are my future son-in-law's socks that he declared would work well when he wore his hip-waders. I had one problem with making them, and they extended about 2" beyond his foot. So I corrected the pattern so no one else would have this problem. I will have a picture soon of what these socks look like. (see bottom of post for an update on this pattern.)

Hip-wader Socks

SIZE
One Size fits Most
MATERIALS
Red Heart Super Saver
1 Skein each of Royal Blue (MC) and White (CC) or colors of your choice
Size 13 set of double-pointed needles (dpns)(might be handy to have 5 dpns on hand for the heel work)
Stitch markers (optional-- I never used them in making these socks)
Tapestry needle
STITCH EXPLANATION
ssk (slip, slip, knit) Slip next 2 sts as if to knit, one at a time, to right needle; insert left
needle into fronts of these 2 sts and k them tog.
SOCKS
With MC and dpns, using 2 strands held tog, cast on 24 sts; divide sts evenly on 3 dpns (or 8 sts per needle). Join, taking care not to twist sts. Place marker or piece of yarn at beg of rnd (or use the end of yarn from casting on to mark the beginning). Work in (k 1, p 1) rib for 5 rnds. Then knit straight for 18 rounds.
Heel flap (work back and forth)
Turn to WS, Drop MC (do not cut it) and Attach CC, p 12 sts; turn to RS and k 12 sts. (Note Instep sts not being worked can be kept on one dpn.) Rep last 2 rows 3 more times. Turn to WS and p 12 sts.
Heel turning:
Turn to (RS) 6, k2tog, k 1. Turn.
(WS) P 2, p2tog, p 1. Turn.
K 3, k2tog, k 1.
Turn.
P 4, p2tog, p 1. Turn.
K 5, k2tog. Turn. (WS) P 5, p2tog. Turn.
K 6 heel sts. Cut CC and attach MC at this point.
Return now to working in the round, arranging stitches as follows: With dpn #1, pick up
and k 10 sts up side of heel flap; with dpn #2, k 12 instep sts; with dpn #3, pick up and k 10 sts along side of heel flap; k across 3 sts of dpn #1 --38 sts.
Heel gusset
Dec rnd Place marker, on dpn #1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k 1; on dpn #2, k across instep sts; on dpn #3, k 1, ssk, k to end of needle. Rep this dec rnd 2 times. K 1 rnd. Rep dec rnd. Rep these last 2 rnds 3 more times (7 dec rnds and 24 sts rem). K every rnd even until Sock is about 2" from desired length to toe measured from bottom of heel flap, ending by working sts on dpn #1 and place marker.
TOE
Cut MC. Join CC. K 1 rnd.
Toe dec rnd: K 1, ssk, k to last 3 sts on dpn #2, k2tog, k 1; on dpn #3, k 1, ssk, k to end; on dpn #1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k 1. K 2 rnds even. Rep dec rnd. K 2 rnd(s) even.
Rep dec rnd. K 1 rnd even. Rep dec rnd. 10 sts left on 2 needles.
Cut CC, leaving 10" tail. Thread tapestry needle with tail and do the kitchener stitch. Weave in ends. Make second Sock same. (It might be easier to count the stitches from the last dec on the gusset to where you start the toe, it will make the socks even if you do that.)

Just a small note about this pattern. When I made the first pair for my son-in-law, we used a foot measurement of 12" when his actual foot measured 10". So I did correct it for everyone else. He has since bought me more yarn to make him more socks for his waders, and also so he can keep his feet warm on these cold Idaho nights.

Long time-- No See

Yes, I know, it's been a while since I've done anything here. My biggest achievements have been that a daughter that I have to give up for adoption finally made her way back home!! I've spent a lot of time with her, and helping her adapt to the area as much as I can. She has adapted so well, that she found the love of her life in a friend of mine. Now before anyone thinks something is wrong, this friend is only 2 years older than my daughter, and I actually made friends with him and his parents before my daughter entered the picture.

I'm doing another post for a pair of socks that I made for him. Never thought he would have received this gift so well, but he likes them in spite of the mistakes I made in them.

So, now on to the pattern.

Sorry

If anyone is reading this and hoping that I will post more patterns, I'm sorry. I've had some family emergencies going on in the past few months, from my dad passing away to non-stop problems with my ex. I'm still working on my knitting and crocheting, just not as much as I would like to do.

Currently on the needles: Another bag that is done entirely out of thread, dishcloth done in thread, and slippers (or dorm boots) for me and the kids.

On those dorm boots: I'm using the pattern for the Lopi Boots but made some changes to it. Like the needle size and the yarn used. I'm allergic to wool. Very allergic. Plus I don't have enough circular needles to do what the pattern called for. So using the basic pattern, I divided it up onto 4 double point needles from Lion Brand. The following picture is of my daughter's finished boots and what it looks like in progress with my son's boots.

Yes, it's a slight trick to knitting on double point needles like this in the beginning, but it's worth the results when they are done. If anyone wants to try to do this pattern the way I did, I used size 7 for my daughter's boots, size 8 for my son's and probably will use the 8's for my own boots as well. Just not sure yet. These were also made slightly larger than they probably should have been, but then there is enough room to wear socks if you want. Oh, before I forget, the yarn is Red Heart Super Saver worsted weight yarn.

The Scrubby Sponge

Ok, decided to add another crochet pattern. This one whipped up very quickly, like in 2 hours for me. Please, don't hesitate to let me know if there is any errors in this pattern.

Scrubby Sponge

2 balls Size 10 crochet thread (I used bedspread cotton)
Size B hook
Kitchen sponge

Holding 2 threads together, Chain 23

DC in 5th chain from hook. *ch1, sk 1 ch, DC in next chain, repeat from * to last stitch. (DC, ch 1) 3 times in last chain. Now start working on the other side, doing the ch1,sk 1 DC pattern, using the same stitch from when you went across the row. End with 2 (DC-ch1) in the end hole (the beginning 4 chain). Do not join, but start to work in continuous rounds using the DC-ch1 pattern in the holes made from the first round.

When you get it as tall as the sponge, stop with DC at one corner, then do ch1, HDC in next stitch, then *(ch1, HDC) 2 times in the next hole, and around again until you reach the hole just after the HDC. CH1, sc in next space, slip stitch in next space. Cut thread and weave in ends.

Now take the thread you have been using, and chain 40. Cut off and leave the tails (or if you prefer, weave the tails back in). Find about center of the top, and using the hook, pull chain through, do a simple tie and you’re on your way to scrubbing!!

I’m sure that if you want to, you can sc the top shut, but I prefer to be able to change the sponge out when it becomes too gross to be used anymore (and that includes running it through the dishwasher several times), or if the sponge is totally worn out and falling apart. I just don’t like to throw away my handiwork like that.

Chocolate Hobo Bag

Here is my favorite Pattern, the Chocolate Hobo bag. Hope you have as much fun as I did making it.

Chocolate Hobo Bag

One lb cone Peaches-n-Cream worsted weight Cotton, Chocolate or whatever color you choose. (If doing the stripes, then have a contrasting color yarn handy, but make sure it is cotton yarn as well)

Size 8 double pointed needles (must have 5 in the package)
Size 8 Circular Needles (I can’t remember the length at this time)
Size G crochet hook (optional)
Button of choice (optional)
Yarn Needle for sewing
Ring markers.

Using double pointed needles, leaving about a foot length of yarn, cast on 8 stitches and divide between 4 needles. Join, being careful not to twist them.

Rnd 1: Increase in each stitch knitting
Rnd 2: knit one, increase one around
Rnd 3: knit 2, increase one around
Rnd 4: knit 3, increase one around
Rnd 5: knit 4, increase one around
Rnd 6: knit 5, increase one around
Rnd 7: knit 6, increase one around
Rnd 8: knit 7, increase one around
Rnd 9: knit 8, increase one around
Rnd 10: knit 9, increase one around. During this round, it might be helpful if you put stitch markers right after your increase. Also, remember to mark the beginning of the round at this point.
Next rnd: knit
Next rnd: knit until one stitch before marker, increase.
Repeat these last 2 rounds until you have a total of 144 stitches, switching to the circular needles when necessary.
Next rnd: Knit straight until desired length. If desired, add stripes in the body of the bag.. Mine was 5 rnds of white separated by 10 rnds of Chocolate, then another 5 rnds of white. Then worked with chocolate again.
Next rnd: knit 36, bind off 36, knit 36, bind off 36.

Now we will be working in rows, forming the handles.
Knit first row
Purl next row
*Knit 1, knit 2 tog, knit across until last 3 stitches, knit 2 tog, knit one
Purl next row. Repeat from * until there are only 16 stitches left. Use Stockingette stitch (knit one row, purl one row) until half of desired length of handle.

Repeat for the other 36 sts. Sew handles together and sew bottom hole of bag closed. Crochet around all edges.

Optional: Crochet a chain loop when you finish the edges. Sew a button of choice on the side opposite the chain.

ReadyMop Pads and solutions

I'm going to add to my many craft talents here as well. I sew, do beadwork, and even play with polimer clay (I know that's not spelled right, so give me a break, it's 4am here).The following is an eco-friendly version of the ReadyMop Pads and solution.

I thought I would share my pattern and the recipe I found for my Clorox Ready Mop with the world. I don't know much about the Swiffer Mop, though from what I heard, there is a way to get the cap off of the bottle and you can refill with this solution.

I'm starting off with the pads I made for my ready mop. I did 9 of these in a single afternoon, so it's not that hard to do.

This first picture shows both the front and back of 2 of the pads.

This one is a close-up of the netting I put on the front.

The materials I used were a package of white wash cloths from Wal-Mart. You know, the ones that they have 2 for $5 (the cheap ones). I'm sure you can use those Microfiber cloths that are out there, but since I'm on a tight budget, I haven't tried that yet

An old thick (in this case, an ugly pink) towel, but even another folded washcloth should work here.

And last, but not least, Nylon Netting. You can get the netting at any fabric store.

Now while I designed these using the Ready Mop pads, I'm going to put in measurements so you don't have the frustration (sometimes it's better if you have one of the disposable pads close by for reference).

For as many pads as your going to make, you need to cut rectangles out of the old towel and netting 4 inches wide by 11 (?) inches long. The length does depend on how big the washcloth is. Placement of these 2 on the main cloth is in the middle 1/3rd. My washcloths measure about 11 3/4 inches, so from one side I measured in 3 1/2 inches. I know it doesn't sound right, but it does work out. I laid the pink towel on one side, then holding it, turned the whole thing over and laid the netting on the other side. (sometimes it helps to have a clean disposable pad on hand to check the placement) Grab the sewing machine and I zig-zagged around the netting. When that was done, double check to make sure you caught the towel on the other side. That's it!! The reason why I used the pink towel was so I can make sure that the pink side is always against the head so I can use the netting as a type of scrubber. And it helps the kids to make sure the cloth is put on the right way. I ran a test between the 2, disposable pad vs. this home-made one. Honestly, the homemade one held more liquid and cleaned the floor better than the disposable one. The only thing I don't know is if this pattern could be adapted to the Swiffer Mop.

One thing I did notice is that there is some extra cloth on each side when you put it on the mop. I'm hoping that soon I can afford a serger and see about removing this extra edge for a neater appearance.

At this time, I have forgotten where I found this cleaner. But, IMHO, it works just as good as the cleaner you buy in the stores.

All Purpose Spray Cleaner (Clorox mop liquid)

1 pint rubbing alcohol

1 tbsp dishwashing detergent

1 tbsp household ammonia

1 tbsp vinegar

1 gallon Water (this is optional, as you can use a clean Milk Jug Container and tap water)

If using bought water, pour some out into a pitcher and hang on to it, or if using a an old milk jug, then fill it about half full. Using a funnel, put all ingredients in the jug, top off with reserved water (or tap water) and shake gently. Pour into a spray bottle (or mop bottle) and start cleaning.

This solution works very well with the Ready Mop, plus I keep some in a spray bottle for the counters and mirrors. So far, I havn't found anything that it won't clean. Even tried it on some nasty spots in my carpet, and it did wonders.

A friend doesn't have the ReadyMop system, so she uses it in a spray bottle with rags on her Swiffer and it does a wonderful job as well.